Reading cosmetic INCI ingredient lists for sensitive skin

Updated 29 October 2026 · By IngrediLens

If a cream or shampoo has ever left you red, itchy or flaky, the ingredient list is your best tool. Cosmetic labels look intimidating, with long Latin names and chemical terms. But they follow clear rules, and once you know how to read them you can spot your triggers.

How the list is ordered

In the EU and UK, cosmetics list ingredients using INCI names. US labels follow the same order rules but use English common names, such as "Water" and "Fragrance", where INCI says "Aqua" and "Parfum".

• Ingredients are listed in descending order of weight, down to 1%.
• Ingredients below 1% can be listed in any order after that.
• Colourants may be listed at the end as CI numbers (for example, CI 77491 for an iron oxide).
• Fragrance is usually one word: "Parfum" (EU) or "Fragrance" (US), even though it can be a mix of dozens of substances.
• Plant ingredients use Latin names: Butyrospermum Parkii (shea), Simmondsia Chinensis (jojoba), Aloe Barbadensis (aloe vera).

Water (Aqua) is often first because it makes up most of the product.

Fragrance allergens named by EU law

Fragrance is one of the most common causes of contact allergy to cosmetics. EU law therefore requires certain fragrance allergens to be named individually when they are above 0.001% in leave-on products (creams, deodorants) or 0.01% in rinse-off products (shampoo, shower gel).

For years the list had 26 substances, including linalool, limonene, citronellol, geraniol, citral, eugenol, coumarin, cinnamal, hydroxycitronellal, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate and oakmoss (Evernia Prunastri). Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 expanded the list to more than 80 substances and extracts. New products must follow it from 31 July 2026, and products already on the market must do so by 31 July 2028. You will see more of these names on EU labels in the coming years.

Linalool and limonene are fairly harmless when fresh, but they can form sensitising compounds when they oxidise in air. If you react to them, an old opened bottle may be worse than a new one.

Other common skin triggers

These are well-known causes of contact allergy or irritation. Not everyone reacts, but they are worth knowing if your skin is sensitive:

• Preservatives: methylisothiazolinone (MI) and methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI). The EU has banned MI in leave-on products and restricted it in rinse-off products. Also formaldehyde releasers such as DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea and quaternium-15.
• Surfactants: sodium lauryl sulfate (an irritant in some people), cocamidopropyl betaine.
• Hair dye: p-phenylenediamine (PPD) and related dyes. Hair dyes carry warnings, and a skin alert test is recommended before each use, following the instructions in the pack.
• Lanolin (wool wax, Lanolin Alcohol), propolis (Propolis Extract) and some botanical extracts (chamomile, tea tree oil, other essential oils).
• Acids and actives: retinoids, AHAs (glycolic acid, lactic acid), BHA (salicylic acid) and vitamin C can irritate sensitive skin, especially in combination.

Food allergens in cosmetics

Cosmetics do not have allergen warnings like food, but food-derived ingredients are named on the INCI list. If you have a food allergy, look for:

Whether skin contact with these is a risk depends on your allergy. Ask your allergist, especially for young children with eczema. More food names are in our guides to nuts, soy and milk.

Pregnancy and skincare

Some active ingredients, especially retinoids (retinol, retinyl palmitate, tretinoin), are commonly advised against during pregnancy. Ask your doctor, midwife or pharmacist before using strong actives while pregnant or breastfeeding. Do not rely on online lists.

Practical tips

1. Patch test new products on a small area for a few days, as the product instructions or your dermatologist advise.
2. Change one product at a time, so you know what caused a reaction.
3. Keep the packaging of anything that caused a reaction, and note it in a reaction diary.
4. "Fragrance-free" vs "unscented": "unscented" products can contain masking fragrance. Check for Parfum and the named allergens.
5. "Natural", "hypoallergenic", "clean" are marketing terms. Essential oils are natural and are common allergens.
6. See a dermatologist for persistent rashes. Patch testing can find your specific allergens.

How IngrediLens helps

IngrediLens reads cosmetic INCI lists as well as food labels. Point the camera at the ingredients on a cream or shampoo and the app highlights the substances you chose, such as named fragrance allergens, preservatives like methylisothiazolinone, or food-derived ingredients like almond oil and wheat protein. You can add your own ingredients as custom filters in Premium. The app does not judge whether a product suits your skin, and it can miss small print, so always check the pack.